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Fiber Laser Cutting Guide 1.5kw

6 min read·Updated Nov 2026
Applies toAccuMetalTopicMaterials & Parameters

Settings, gases and troubleshooting for 1.5 kW fiber cutters

A clean cut comes down to five settings and one habit: change one thing at a time and let the edge tell you which way to go. This guide shows what each setting does, how to pick a gas, and how to fix what you see on the part.

Fiber laser cutting metal sheet

Inside this guide

  1. How a laser cut works

  2. The five core settings

  3. Choosing a gas

  4. Frequency and duty cycle

  5. The three heights

  6. Fixing common problems

  7. Starting settings for 1.5 kW

How a laser cut works

The beam melts a narrow line through the metal, and the assist gas blows that melt out the bottom. Every setting either changes the heat (power, speed, pulsing) or changes how well the gas clears the cut (pressure, nozzle, focus, height).

Cutting head cross-section showing beam, assist gas, nozzle, cut height, focus point, and melt ejection

Cutting head cross-section · beam, gas and the two adjustments

The lens moves to set focus; the whole head moves to set cut height. They are two separate adjustments.

The five core settings

Speed, pressure and focus do most of the work. Power usually stays at 100%.

Setting

What it controls

Too high

Too low

Power (%)

Peak laser output

Extra heat, wider kerf

Won't cut through; lower speed instead

Speed(m/min)

How long the beam heats each spot

Beam lags: angled lines, hard beads, may not cut through

Too much melt: rough edge, soft drips, discoloration

Gas pressure(bar)

Force that blows molten metal out the bottom

Air/N2: rarely a problem. O2: rough, over-burned edge

Air/N2: dross on the bottom edge

Focus (mm)

Where the beam is narrowest. Minus = into the metal

Toward +: wide spot on top (oxygen style)

Toward −: wider kerf at the bottom so gas gets through (air/N2 style)

Nozzle (S2, S3, D1.2)

Gas jet type and size

Bigger opening: more gas volume, slower jet

Smaller opening: faster, tighter jet

  • S nozzles are single-layer, for air and nitrogen. D nozzles are double-layer, for oxygen.

  • Thicker metal moves focus further from zero. Air and nitrogen run about −1.5 to −5 mm. Oxygen runs about +5 to +6.5 mm.

  • Change one setting at a time and cut a short test line after each.

Choosing a gas

Air is the low-cost default for thin metal. Nitrogen is for bright, weld-ready stainless. Oxygen is for thick mild steel.

Air

Nitrogen

Oxygen

Edge finish

Gray, lightly oxidized

Bright silver, oxide-free

Dark oxide, square and smooth

Dross

Light burr on thicker parts

Little to none

Low on mild steel when tuned

Pressure

8–12 bar (115–175 psi)

12–15 bar (175–220 psi)

0.5–1.2 bar

Running cost

Lowest (electricity only)

Highest (high gas use)

Low

Best for

Stainless, mild steel and aluminum up to about 3–4 mm

Visible, welded or painted stainless and aluminum

Mild steel from about 3 mm up

Avoid on

Parts that need a bright edge

Thick mild steel (slow and costly)

Stainless and aluminum

  • Air quality matters as much as pressure. Use a dryer plus oil and particle filters. Wet or oily air causes burr and fogs the lens.

  • Check pressure at the cutting head, not the compressor. Dryers and filters can drop 15–30 psi.

Frequency and duty cycle

These two settings pulse the laser on and off. At 100% duty the laser never turns off, so frequency does nothing; most cuts run this way.

Laser output chart showing continuous, high-frequency, and low-frequency pulsing

Laser output over 6 ms · continuous vs. high- and low-frequency pulsing

  • Duty cycle is the share of each cycle the laser is on. Average power = power × duty.

  • Frequency is how many on/off cycles per second. Lower frequency means longer, heavier pulses.

  • Pulse cutting (high frequency, 80–90% duty) lets heat escape between pulses: a cleaner edge and less discoloration on thin sheet, small holes and tight corners, at slightly lower speed.

  • Pulse piercing (100–500 Hz) digs in with each pulse, then pauses so the melt can blow out. A continuous pierce builds a molten pool that erupts up at the nozzle.

  • Pulse spacing = speed ÷ frequency. Keep it below about 0.1 mm for a continuous cut; wider spacing leaves a dashed line, useful for scoring.

The three heights

Cut height is your main dross control; pierce height decides how long a nozzle lasts.

Side view of pierce, cut and leap heights

Side view · pierce, cut and leap heights (not to scale)

Height

Lower it

Raise it

Cut height

Cleaner bottom edge; more spatter on the tip

Gas spreads out; more dross

Pierce height

Faster pierce; spatter reaches the nozzle

Safer nozzle and lens; slower

Leap height

Faster travel

Clears tipped-up parts

  • Focus vs. cut height: focus moves the lens; cut height moves the whole head. Set height for the gas first, then tune focus for the edge.

  • Pierce delay: too short leaves a gouged start, too long makes a crater. Use a lead-in to keep the pierce mark off the part.

Fixing common problems

Read the edge, then work down the fix list in order, one change at a time.

What you see

Likely cause

What to change, in order

Hard beads on the bottom, lines sweep backward

Too fast

Slow down 5–10%

Soft drips, rough wide kerf, discolored edge

Too slow or too much heat

Speed up 5–10%

Dross on the bottom edge (air/N2)

Gas can't clear the kerf

  1. Raise pressure

  2. Focus 0.5 mm deeper

  3. Smaller nozzle

  4. Lower cut height to 0.4 mm

Doesn't cut through

Too fast, or dirty optics

Slow down 10%, then check focus and clean the protective window

Burned or rounded corners

Full power while the head slows

Turn on or lower the power ramp at low speed

Dross on one side of the part only

Nozzle off-center or damaged

Center the nozzle (tape shot), replace if worn

Messy, gouged start

Pierce too short

Add pierce delay, or use a lead-in

Spatter on the nozzle tip

Pierce height too low

Raise pierce height

Example: 3 mm stainless on air at 10 bar went from heavy dross to near zero with four changes: S3 to S2 nozzle, focus −3.5 to −4.5 mm, cut height 0.5 to 0.4 mm, and speed 3.0 to 2.5 m/min.

Starting settings for 1.5 kW

Use these for a first cut, then tune with the problem table. ✓ = cut and confirmed on a 1.5 kW machine; the rest are starting points to test.

Material

Gas

Thickness(mm)

Speed(m/min)

Pressure(bar)

Focus(mm)

Nozzle

Cut height(mm)

Verified

Stainless

Air

1

22

9

0

S2

0.5

Stainless

Air

2

6.5

10

−2

S2

0.4

Stainless

Air

3

2.5

10

−4.5

S2

0.4

✓

Stainless

Air

4

1.3

10

−5

S2

0.4

Stainless

N2

1

25

15

0

S2

0.5

✓

Stainless

N2

2

8

15

−1.5

S2

0.5

✓

Stainless

N2

3

3.5

15

−3.5

S3

0.5

✓

Stainless

N2

4

2.1

15

−4

S3

0.5

✓

Stainless

N2

5

1.6

15

−5

S3

0.5

✓

Mild steel

Air

1

24

9

−0.5

S2

0.5

Mild steel

Air

2

6.5

10

−2.5

S2

0.4

Mild steel

Air

3

2.5

10

−3.8

S2

0.4

Mild steel

N2

1

26

15

−0.5

S3

0.5

✓

Mild steel

N2

2

8

15

−2

S3

0.5

✓

Mild steel

O2

3

3.3

0.55

+6.4

D1.2

0.5

✓

Mild steel

O2

5

2.0

0.58

+5.7

D1.2

0.3

✓

Mild steel

O2

6

1.7

0.6

+5.5

D1.2

0.3

Mild steel

O2

8

1.3

0.55

+5

D1.2

0.3

✓

Mild steel

O2

10

1.0

0.6

+6

D1.5

0.3

Aluminum

Air

1

14

9

−1

S2

0.5

Aluminum

Air

2

4.5

10

−2.5

S2

0.4

Aluminum

N2

1

15

14

−1

S2

0.5

Aluminum

N2

2

5.5

15

−2

S2

0.5

Settings vary with the laser source, cutting head, lens and gas quality. Aluminum is reflective, so confirm your source has back-reflection protection before cutting it.

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